Welcome , I am going to try and manipulate the times and dates on this blog so that you can read it in chronological order.  All blogs show the latest entry at the top, this makes it difficult to follow. My latest entries will be at the end, so when you get to the bottom of the page click on older posts , Not on newer posts, and read the blog from the top to the bottom. Therefore, one needs to ignore the times and dates on the posting  as that is what I will be manipulating. I will  mention the actual date in the blog itself.


THE 88 TEMPLE HIKE of SHIKOKU
this is a hike I was made aware of while walking the 1000 miles of the Camino in Spain last year, seemed like a challenge that would test my resolve, but had a huge history attached to it, and of significant importance to the Japanese culture, so i think I need to attempt this walk.
 Japans oldest pilgrimage trail of, depending who you talk to, approx 850 miles to include all 88 temples and the school started by KUKAI. Known today by the name of KOBO DAISHI, Kukai was known to have walked this trail in the early 800s AD, and gained his wisdom by visiting and training in all 88 temples.
Born in 774AD, Kukai travelled to China to study as a young man, only to return two years later to supposedly walk the temple route,( there is no real evidence that he did this) learn his wisdom, and introduce the Japanese to the Shingon sect of Buddhism.
Although there are reports of pilgrims walking this route in Kukai's honor about 1200 years ago, the route didnt become known to the general public until the mid 17th century when a book covering his apparent walk was published in Japan.

An old friend, Leonard,  we are looking forward to walking together again

I had to special order a guide book myself, translated to English, from Japan for this walk. Statistics say that about 100,000 people (mostly Japanese) walk , car, bus, bicycle,  this trail each year. This number is grossly over estimated as very few walk the entire trail, maybe 100+ each year, I expect this to be quite a solitary journey. The estimate includes all the pilgrims who walk a weekend, or a section each year in the hopes of completing the walk before they die .For some Japanese people, this is very important.They can be seen walking in the traditional funeral jacket(a white vest known as a Hakui), in which they will be buried in , when they pass.   In accordance with the "Henro" tradition, I will be wearing the jacket out of respect for the whole adventure.( mine will have Japanese writing on the back which translates to "two walking together" in reference to myself and Kukai) Furthermore, i will be wearing a Traditional Sedge Hat, and a Staff to walk with. The wood staff is waiting in Japan at the first temple, it represents walking with Kukai, and it is my responsibility to wash the bottom of the staff each day, representing the  washing of the feet of Kukai. There are other things like a rosary which i must carry, this will be held in both hands as I enter each of the 88 temples, and will recite the heart Sutra.
The funeral robe (Hakui) is an ancient shroud , but it apparently brings pilgrims to a new beginning.
One takes care of your staff first, at the end of each day, before caring for yourself, and place the staff in a room alcove (tokonoma). Also,it is said that Kukai sometime sleeps under the bridges, so it is forbidden to tap ones staff on the ground when crossing a bridge.
 In old times, the staff was also used to mark the graves of pilgrim who had passed along the way, my plan is not to have to leave my staff in Japan!!!!!!!
Having said that, between 2 and 3 thousand people a year get bitten by the infamous "Pit Viper" , a poisonous  snake that is prevalent in japan, the other creature to watch for are the large Centipeeds commonly found on the island, these too have a nasty venom one apparently does not want to sample.
The Shikoku Pilgrim route is also called the HENRO,  as are the pilgrims who walk it that are known as O'HENRO
. A Japanese wise man once wrote,"a pilgrimage is like virtually dying. you lose everything you have .Its a form of Ascetic training, you leave the physical and mental baggage behind", but Oyamada disagreed: , the idea of escape implies turning your back. "This is not about that," he said ,"this is about finding serenity, this is about refreshment", but he was very clear that institutional religion has nothing to do with it.
The trail will take me from city concrete pavement, to paddy fields, ocean highways, mountaintops and forest trails.
I have studied the route elevation chart, and realized that there are no mountains  and hills in this Island, just cliffs. The elevation chart indicates vicious climbs, both on the up and the downs,, I live  at over 2300 meters, so i dont expect altitude to be a problem, but I think the steep climbs with a back pack may sting a little. Oh well.

the elevation change map for each day

Accommodation is going to be a bit of  a hoot, most O'Henro walking the traditional way will sleep out ( I have my gear), sometimes in henro huts which the locals build to care for the pilgrims, these are glorified bus shelters, then there are bus stations and park benches. Not being the deepest of sleepers, this might be my greatest challenge, a lack of sleep could be a huge issue, maybe a cheap hotel every now and then may be called for.
 Apparently when the locals see a Henro dressed in traditional form and walking the trail, they treat you with great kindness, respect and care,
I hope so because I think Im going to need a hug at some point.
This is a rural area of Japan, so i expect little English, and a lot of hand jestures are in my future, which could mean the boiled egg i ordered could look and taste like fried squid. Hey, its protein.
I young Buddhist monk wrote ( and we could all learn from this)" speech is good for a silver medal, you get a gold medal for listening".
SETTAI is something I MUST accept along the trail, Settai is a gift from a local, could be candy, a nights accommodation, cup of coffee.  The motivation for giving the gift is varied, but it is a huge insult to not accept gratefully, I must try and carry something to give in return, but its going to have to be lite, as Leonard (my backpack for those who have not followed my blogs in the past) is up to 26lbs right now, be about 30 lbs with the water bladder full.

The journey starts from Denver, Colorado, on Sunday the 25th of Sept 2016, I leave at 5pm and have about 40 hours of travel to the first temple.
I have given myself 7 weeks to make the final temple and return home.
 I hope to attach an APP called "Hi mum, Im here", it should be in the blog, and with this you will be able to follow my progress, when ever i find internet.
First blog should be on or about Sept 29.
                                                  HERE WE GO

I am at the Denver Airport after a big brunch at Southern Hospitality Restaurant with Erika, and now I'm kind of psyching myself out for the long haul.
From here it's a few hours to San Fransisco , a 6 hour lay over, then a flight to Guangzhou in China, another 3 hour lay over and on to Osaka, Zapan.  At this stage I have a long bus ride, and a train to get to my starting point.I have cookies for the trip, thanks dear.

So, my frustration starts again, after another hour in the Apple Store yesterday, getting my photos to transfer from the phone to the iPad,  we have been through this numerous times, with numerous Apple Store visits, and I thought I had it licked, well, silly me.....
I guess I have the time for a day or two, to try and fix it. I will be very bummed out if I can't attach photos to this blog, I guess you will know if I succeed in a fix. Time to get on the plane, not looking forward to this long haul....
Ahhhh, the iPad issue was simply elementary my dear......Watson .

already feeling knackered

well I finally got here, the date is Tuesday the 27th of Sept, and it's been a 30 hour jaunt. I have another bus ride tomorrow for an hour to get me to the first temple.
This has been a tiring journey, and I arrived in China at 5am this morning, was the only person sitting in th airport lounge till about 7.30  when all hell broke loose. No coffee or any restaurants open, glad for the home made cookies Erica gave me at th airport, even some of the Chinese were looking enviously at me.

Landing in Japan was a deal boost . Seems my spirits picked up a bit and everything fell into place. Got out of the airport quickly, through passport control, Leonard was already waiting on thmy conveyer belt and I breezed through customs.  Th e bus was easy, walked straight through the airport lobby, out the door on the main level, and the bus ticket was 41 dollars US.. The bus was sitting right there, so 3 hours later and I'm in Tockushima city.

We flew over Shikoku Island coming into Osaka, got my juices flowing as I'm tired of sitting and ready to walk.

i dont normally post photos of a bus, i guess Im just happy to he here

This morning I was up early after a restless night, went out  and had pizza at some local joint, met a Spanish character who came to walk and got to temple 36, he was on his way home. He also mentioned the time walking on pavement, which is part why he didn't finish the walk, his pace was slow. Oh well, I'm sure I'll find out how I do myself.
Got on a bus and had a 45 minute ride to Temple number one. RYOZENJI. I picked up my gear and headed into the temple to pray for a safe journey.

got my traditional waking clothes for this walk, time to head out

start point

last nights bed, and the first of many sleeps on the floor 

One enters through the main gate and bows as you enter, you announce that you have come to pray, then you proceed to the water closet on the left usually, which is where you take a ladle of water wash both hands and then wash your mouth. As I was new to this, I washed my mouth but didn't know the etiquette, do you spit it out, or swallow, I was afraid of offending someone, so I swallowed............apparently you spit.

I found it confusing at the start and had to get my bearings, so I asked in broken something language with lots of hand gestures, so much so, I felt like I had just completed an aerobics class ," which way to temple two". couldnt get much help till it was pointed out to me that I was asking my way to temple number 28, that will prove to be an omen later on as it turns out.

The first days walk covers 5 temples, but I found myself done by early afternoon. I chose to walk on and finished at temple 7, way beyond my target for the first day, and something I would later regret

the meditation hall and prayer room

By now it was raining and I was drenched, so I found a local home and got a room for the night. Dinner was included, as was breakfast, for 48 dollars. Learning the house etiquette was a trip, take shoes off and put on slippers, walk to bedroom and remove slippers, go to bathroom and remove slippers at door and replace with slippers in bathroom.  Dinner was not enough for this guy, plus I hate Miso soup, did in the USA , still do. Anyway, it was tasty and I gobbled it up before diving into my rock hard straw mat bed on the floor. No mattresses, turns out quite comfortable when you get the hang of it. Being dead tired helped.
Excited for tomorrows walk as i plan to cover some ground..

seems every temple was at the TOP  OF A LONG set of stairs

Day two of walking
Woke up stiff, but that's to be expected as I had not hauled Leonard around for almost a year now, plus my new boots were not all that comfortable. I had done a few local hikes in them to break them in, but once you add the weight of a pack to the equation, all bets are off. I have learned over my walks that one needs to find a good fitting boot, then buy the same boot one to one and a half sizes bogger, install a Dr Scholls insert under the shoe insert, and wear synthetic socks, wool is NOT the answer, synthetic wicks better, and your feet grow if you walk a consistently long path daily, trust me, this works, trust me, I didnt do that this time and Im paying the price
 It was still raining slightly, no matter as my boots were still wet from yesterday, and packing them with news paper overnight helps, but does not dry them completely.

I asked for directions at the food mart, which confused the guy serving me, understandably, as I was asking for Temple Dianichiji again for some reason, and I wanted to go to Temple Anrakuji. Sorted that out and off I went with a strong determination to reach the country and farm land areas( my boots were creating a problem for me now),

 I had reached Temple Fujiidera (#11) by 1pm, the next temple was #12 and was at the top of a mountain, I didn't think 700 meter climb was too daunting, so I made a judgement call ( apparently not a good one)  and headed for number 12. There would be a place to stay in the temple.
On the way to the climb, I came upon an old "Henro Hut" where pilgrims can sleep, it was on the side of the main road and I thought the noise would keep me awake, so I kept going for the top of the mountain.

 I need to study my elevation chart better, because 700 meters isn't that big a deal, but I had to crest 4 times. Up down up down in the wettest and slippery conditions of loose rock, roots and streams. I was exhausted when I finally made the temple about 4 hours later,I was out of snacks and the only water to be had was the rain, or, the mouth wash cleansing basin at the temple entrance oh well, so I drank from that. 

The temple had closed and nowhere to stay, this was a bad situation as it was a long way down and was already getting into dusk.

at each temple, the priest will write you a travelers prayer in Sanskrit, this was six of the many,  so far

I had to hike down in the dark believing there was a village out the bottom, bad call. Two hours of downhill hiking on wet rocks is not fun
I was lost on this country road in the rain and pitch dark. I walked towards the direction I thought I would find a village and hoped for the best.
When I stopped to put on my headlamp, and a flashing blue beacon on my pack, so I could be seen, a lady drove by and stopped. I dropped my bag by the side of the road and crossed over, she jabbled on and I jabbled back, till I eventually realized she was telling me to get in the car. As I realized this, an old man drove from the other direction in his tiny van, was looking at the lady and I, and he drove over Leonard,,,,NOooo,  not Leonard ,,can it get any worse?.
 I was worried about my iPad, my iPod, and all that stuff being smashed. Two things happened, the lady took me to her place which was a Henro hotel( thank goodness, I could have kissed her right there) and upon inspection, Leonard wasn't too bad. My ear phones were crushed and the umbrella was a mess, once I finished doing what I could for my umbrella, the umbrella was going to work fine, just as long as the rain was coming from the side.  When I got to my bedroom, I realized he had destryed my only banana, it was dead all over the inside of my pack.
I evaluated my decision to go for temple 12 so late in the day, reading the guide book(a novel idea) it says," do not attempt this climb unless you start first thing in the morning" , hmmmm

Day three on trail.
I woke in the morning hungry and grumpy, I was tired and my feet were hurting, I don't like these boots.
I got out of bed and the tiny airline pillow I had nicked from the airlines coming over, got it out of bed with me. Upon inspection, it turns out that part of my murdered banana, was stuck to my pillow,,and my ear. I didnt realize it was on the pillow last night , I was too tired.
I looked at my feet as things were not well in that dept. I had bruising across the top of the foot where it bends, and my small toes were swollen. I was starting to feel my knees too, which I was worried about as about 80 percent of all the walking so far had been on asphalt.
I also promised myself to slow down and not try a climb late in the day like I did yesterday. Yesterday had been about the single toughest day of hiking I have ever done, and I was feeling it. Lesson learned.

Of course today started with a climb, but it was sunny at last and the scenery from half way up the valley was tremendous. Today was great, very little asphalt until lunch time, beautiful clear river crossing, and lots of greenery.

the view back to the village I stayed in last night, from quarter the way up the mountain.

half way up todays climb, and someone thinks I need to pray, could be

I met this guy half way up the mountain, he was wild, but didnt seem to mind me much

I eventually made it to Temple 17 late afternoon, but the rain and wind had come back and I was starting to struggle with my feet. I found a great little place to stay next to the temple, with a nice couple who made a good meal for me. When I arrived, the husband took my walking stick and scrubbed it clean( they say the stick is also Kobo Daisha as he walks with you, and should be cared for first at the end of each day) the locals take this very seriously.

my host tonight

I was glad for a bed and a meal for the night, I am beginning to feel pretty worn out, more so than usual, and I think its the food. Its good food, but small meals and not enough nutrition. I am also finding it hard to find places that sell food. A couple of small food marts that have bananas or ham and cucumber sandwiches etc appear here and there, but that and a pint of milk just isnt cutting it.

Today was a long walk from temple 17 to temple 18, the distance was about 20 km and I decided to follow the original Kobo Daisha trail. (In some areas, they have developed a new easier route for the pilgrims, which is also more direct)  the alternative trail was a little longer but went through the city, which meant asphalt.. off I went and the country trail I was following turned into asphalt country roads again,I HATE ASPHALT. I later came to a climb through a forested area which was crazy overgrown, 

no one seems to take the real trail these days, spiders everywhere

 it was obvious no one  ever takes this trail, it was steep and overgrown with sharp serrated weeds.
 More the problem, was the spiders. I was continually looking down at the trail, so would walk into these huge spider webs across my face, I would look up and there would be this 3 inch across, yellow bellied spider looking at me from the tip of my sedge hat, and saying" dude, take me back to my tree branch,,,NOW".
 If your like me, when you walk into a spider web  face first, I do about two weeks of cardio in three seconds flat
Now I know to stay on the tourist trail from now on.

gifts to the gods

i took shelter from the incessant rain today in someone's porch, and actually fell asleep for awhile

and again, up we go to the temple.

I got to Temple 18 and was feeling pretty low, my feet hurt, but the asphalt was relentless.
 I realized how isolated I was starting to feel, I had not met or spoken tio someone in English for this whole trip. I expected this somewhat, but not this isolated, most of my long hikes, i have met people along the way. I'm a social animal and I was struggling with the solitude I guess. This walk was becoming a real mental and physical challenge for me, I knew there would be quite a bit of asphalt too, but this was getting ridiculous now, and it was taking a toll on my knees.

Im wondering what its like to be dry, hope to find a place to sleep and eat, in this village

It was not too far to the next two temples, so I headed out to get them done today, and start tomorrow fresh as it's a long climb to temple 20, of course!

Im suprised they didnt make me swim across the river, seeing as I was wet anyway

beautiful scenery today

a group of devitees at the temple, they are doing it by bus