Welcome , I am going to try and manipulate the times and dates on this blog so that you can read it in chronological order.  All blogs show the latest entry at the top, this makes it difficult to follow. My latest entries will be at the end, so when you get to the bottom of the page click on older posts , Not on newer posts, and read the blog from the top to the bottom. Therefore, one needs to ignore the times and dates on the posting  as that is what I will be manipulating. I will  mention the actual date in the blog itself.


THE 88 TEMPLE HIKE of SHIKOKU
this is a hike I was made aware of while walking the 1000 miles of the Camino in Spain last year, seemed like a challenge that would test my resolve, but had a huge history attached to it, and of significant importance to the Japanese culture, so i think I need to attempt this walk.
 Japans oldest pilgrimage trail of, depending who you talk to, approx 850 miles to include all 88 temples and the school started by KUKAI. Known today by the name of KOBO DAISHI, Kukai was known to have walked this trail in the early 800s AD, and gained his wisdom by visiting and training in all 88 temples.
Born in 774AD, Kukai travelled to China to study as a young man, only to return two years later to supposedly walk the temple route,( there is no real evidence that he did this) learn his wisdom, and introduce the Japanese to the Shingon sect of Buddhism.
Although there are reports of pilgrims walking this route in Kukai's honor about 1200 years ago, the route didnt become known to the general public until the mid 17th century when a book covering his apparent walk was published in Japan.

An old friend, Leonard,  we are looking forward to walking together again

I had to special order a guide book myself, translated to English, from Japan for this walk. Statistics say that about 100,000 people (mostly Japanese) walk , car, bus, bicycle,  this trail each year. This number is grossly over estimated as very few walk the entire trail, maybe 100+ each year, I expect this to be quite a solitary journey. The estimate includes all the pilgrims who walk a weekend, or a section each year in the hopes of completing the walk before they die .For some Japanese people, this is very important.They can be seen walking in the traditional funeral jacket(a white vest known as a Hakui), in which they will be buried in , when they pass.   In accordance with the "Henro" tradition, I will be wearing the jacket out of respect for the whole adventure.( mine will have Japanese writing on the back which translates to "two walking together" in reference to myself and Kukai) Furthermore, i will be wearing a Traditional Sedge Hat, and a Staff to walk with. The wood staff is waiting in Japan at the first temple, it represents walking with Kukai, and it is my responsibility to wash the bottom of the staff each day, representing the  washing of the feet of Kukai. There are other things like a rosary which i must carry, this will be held in both hands as I enter each of the 88 temples, and will recite the heart Sutra.
The funeral robe (Hakui) is an ancient shroud , but it apparently brings pilgrims to a new beginning.
One takes care of your staff first, at the end of each day, before caring for yourself, and place the staff in a room alcove (tokonoma). Also,it is said that Kukai sometime sleeps under the bridges, so it is forbidden to tap ones staff on the ground when crossing a bridge.
 In old times, the staff was also used to mark the graves of pilgrim who had passed along the way, my plan is not to have to leave my staff in Japan!!!!!!!
Having said that, between 2 and 3 thousand people a year get bitten by the infamous "Pit Viper" , a poisonous  snake that is prevalent in japan, the other creature to watch for are the large Centipeeds commonly found on the island, these too have a nasty venom one apparently does not want to sample.
The Shikoku Pilgrim route is also called the HENRO,  as are the pilgrims who walk it that are known as O'HENRO
. A Japanese wise man once wrote,"a pilgrimage is like virtually dying. you lose everything you have .Its a form of Ascetic training, you leave the physical and mental baggage behind", but Oyamada disagreed: , the idea of escape implies turning your back. "This is not about that," he said ,"this is about finding serenity, this is about refreshment", but he was very clear that institutional religion has nothing to do with it.
The trail will take me from city concrete pavement, to paddy fields, ocean highways, mountaintops and forest trails.
I have studied the route elevation chart, and realized that there are no mountains  and hills in this Island, just cliffs. The elevation chart indicates vicious climbs, both on the up and the downs,, I live  at over 2300 meters, so i dont expect altitude to be a problem, but I think the steep climbs with a back pack may sting a little. Oh well.

the elevation change map for each day

Accommodation is going to be a bit of  a hoot, most O'Henro walking the traditional way will sleep out ( I have my gear), sometimes in henro huts which the locals build to care for the pilgrims, these are glorified bus shelters, then there are bus stations and park benches. Not being the deepest of sleepers, this might be my greatest challenge, a lack of sleep could be a huge issue, maybe a cheap hotel every now and then may be called for.
 Apparently when the locals see a Henro dressed in traditional form and walking the trail, they treat you with great kindness, respect and care,
I hope so because I think Im going to need a hug at some point.
This is a rural area of Japan, so i expect little English, and a lot of hand jestures are in my future, which could mean the boiled egg i ordered could look and taste like fried squid. Hey, its protein.
I young Buddhist monk wrote ( and we could all learn from this)" speech is good for a silver medal, you get a gold medal for listening".
SETTAI is something I MUST accept along the trail, Settai is a gift from a local, could be candy, a nights accommodation, cup of coffee.  The motivation for giving the gift is varied, but it is a huge insult to not accept gratefully, I must try and carry something to give in return, but its going to have to be lite, as Leonard (my backpack for those who have not followed my blogs in the past) is up to 26lbs right now, be about 30 lbs with the water bladder full.

The journey starts from Denver, Colorado, on Sunday the 25th of Sept 2016, I leave at 5pm and have about 40 hours of travel to the first temple.
I have given myself 7 weeks to make the final temple and return home.
 I hope to attach an APP called "Hi mum, Im here", it should be in the blog, and with this you will be able to follow my progress, when ever i find internet.
First blog should be on or about Sept 29.
                                                  HERE WE GO